Grandma
Patton's Pickled Beets
Lucy N.
I imagine myself in my grandma's small kitchen in
Texas, filled with the steam of mason jars sterilizing in a big
pot, surrounded by bushel baskets of tomatoes, cumbers, spices,
while my mom and grandma chat over a white enameled pan of just-picked
green beans and a plastic bucket full of colorful discards created
by their paring knife wands. Sometimes I was given the task of paring
green beans for canning or washing cucumbers for pickling. The dangerously
precise job left to the adults was handling hot canning liquids,
funnels, tongs, jars and lids.
Grandma Patton died in 1996 after six long years battling Alzheimer's
disease. I have a lot of recipe cards given to me when her house
was cleaned out. Some recipes are from homemaking magazines and
others cut from the paper. My aunt Judy, who farms in Ohio north
of Columbus, shared a lot of recipes with my grandmother. Not all
of her best recipes are in my box so my aunt agreed to send me a
few that she thought my grandmother might have used.
Grandma's pickled beets were famous. The pastor at hear church,
Vernon Percival, mentioned in her eulogy that he would surely miss
her pickled beets. I could hear people begin to giggle through the
tears, as other's cries swelled deeper. At that moment beet pickles
symbolized everything good about Grandma. The many things she did
right suddenly stood out in all the vibrancy of color, texture,
and sweet tartness in the form of a jar of pickled beets. This was
my grandmother, and she'd probably think we were all silly for making
a fuss over her.
Last year I
planted beets in my backyard in Brooklyn. I had never loved the
taste of beets, but I planted them because it reminded me of Grandma.
And they grew! From my garden alone, I was able to can three pints
of beet pickles from a recipe I took from The Joy of Pickling by
Linda Ziedrich. It was my first pickling experiment and all three
jars sealed beautifully! I sent off this first batch of pickles
to each of my parents in Texas to test. I saved one pint for the
Thanksgiving at my house for the "pickle plate." I actually
liked them a lot and wished that I had made more. My mom remembered
them being a different texture but she said they tasted okay. My
dad ate the whole jar in one sitting.
Pikliz
Fabienne V. - student, New York Restaurant School
"I have always eaten this but because it is so hot, you actually
remember the first time or the first time you had an attack from it
- it is so hot. But this particular recipe for pikliz
it's actually
part of being Haitian. It's almost like you can't be Haitian without
having this recipe. 'Cause having hot pepper in your food is included
- it's with everything. You find some rare Haitians that don't like
hot pepper, but mostly it's included in one of our famous pork dishes,
it's a traditional dish called griot - which is boiled pork with vinegar
and spices and after that you bake it. You bake all the fat out of
it, and then you add the pikliz over it, like the vegetables - cabbage,
and it's got onions in it. And you put it all over and you let it
sit there. The vinegar and the pork - the taste comes out so different.
It brings out the flavor. It's like a completely different flavor,
to the point where you can't stop eating it. It's that kind of appetizer.
It's like when you start - because of the vinegar you can't stop.
It's really, really good."
-
5 cups of shredded green cabbage
-
2 medium size carrots peeled and shredded
-
1/3 cups of green beans sliced thin into short strips
-
1/2 cups of green peas (optional)
-
1 medium onion cut in half and sliced
-
8-12 habaņero chile peppers or scotch bonnet peppers in red, green
and yellow color to give the recipe a beautiful color. Haitians
call these peppers "piment bouk". Habeņero peppers are
one of the hottest - please wear gloves when cutting or don't
allow to touch skin.
-
4 cups of distilled white vinegar
-
1 tsp. salt
Add dry ingredients in a large glass bottle, then add vinegar and
salt. Close bottle tightly and shake all the ingredients well. Put
in the refrigerator and let stand for one day before serving.
This recipe is usually served with our famous traditional baked
pork called "griot." The hot vinegar is used to marinate
fish, chicken or beef. The Pickles are use d on cooked meals and
also sandwiches. Most Haitians eat Pikliz every day in their food.
There is no one way to eat it.
Yelena and
Volko G's Fresh Pickles
"In Ukraine, for the wintertime, you don't make
fresh pickles. You make ones that keep over wintertime. These you
make anytime for taste. If you live in Latvostok, near China, in
Russia. This place it was a hard time in wintertime. Not like here.
You go to the store and you buy pickles fresh. We prepare for wintertime.
For a long time, we prepared for my family. Like three liters, almost
a gallon. You put them in boiled water
Now we don't need this.
We go to the stores, but sometimes it's not the right taste. When
we have a guest, we put mine on the table. It's more special. People
like this. In this recipe, I almost forgot something that makes
this delicious - black currant leaves. Between horseradish and blackcurrant
leaves. Before your guests come, you fix this two days before.
"Fresh
Pickles are easy and you can avoid the excesses of the store-bought
kind - too sour or too salty."
-
Small pickling cucumbers
-
¼ bunch fresh dill
-
6 peppercorns whole
-
4 cloves of garlic, peeled and split
-
2 tsps. salt
-
1 small horseradish, peeled
-
4-5 black currant leaves
Wash cucumbers
and score the top and bottom of each with an inch deep X. Pack them
tightly into a 2 quart jar. Press in dill, peppercorns, garlic,
salt and peeled horseradish. Fill almost to the top with cold, boiled
water. Screw on cap. You will have good half-sours in three days,
or wait longer for desired acidity. To stop them from pickling further,
simply refrigerate them.
Interview
with Young S Choi and David Oh
of Woo Lae Oak Restaruant in Soho
| Choi: |
I studied with a French chef for the last five years. (For
kimchi) I just reduce some things and put other things in
instead. The taste is more mild, and the smell not as strong.
We have many, many kinds of kimchi. In Korea, there are
more than 100 varieties. This is the most famous: pickled
Napa cabbage. Another is cucumber kimchi. The other is made
with is daikon radish. |
| Oh: |
You
will get to know the product better by looking at it first,
then reading the recipe, and then you will get to know our
kimchi concept better. |
| Choi: |
We
use beef stock in the Napa cabbage Bae Chu Kimchi. Kimchi
is like bread with butter. Kak Du Gi daikon radish, and
O-I Kimchi cucumber, we also do a Ma Nel Jang A Chi(Pickled
garlic). |
| Oh: |
I'm
not sure about other countries, but there are so many different
recipes for people making kimchi for each family. Some families
have a different way of making it. North of Korea, South
Korea, east and west -they all have different ways of making
kimchi. But this is the way we do it. |
| Choi: |
This
is mine the Woo Lae Oak style. |
| Oh: |
There
is a big Korean community in Flushing and a big Korean community
in New Jersey, so getting this kind of produce is much easier
than it was twenty years ago. When I came here in 1976,
if you wanted to make kimchi, you have to travel like a
half and hour to get the right cabbages and stuff. Now it's
much easier- in ten or 15 minutes, there are just so many
types of produce available. It takes so much energy to make
kimchi. We have one "old woman" who makes kimchi
365 days a year. It's not like making salad. Where you chop
it up and put dressing on top. She tastes it to make sure
it's okay. Kim chi uses so much procedure. |
| Choi: |
It's so interesting. I travel to a lot of countries and
they all have pickles there... Cucumber, tomato - so many
pickles. |
| Oh: |
The
salt for Napa cabbage is kosher salt. This one soaks overnight
to make sure it's not chewy. It gets crisp. |
| Choi: |
It all depends on how many hours you soak the cabbage. |
| Oh: |
The vessel that kimchi is made in depends on the family. |
| Choi: |
Some
families use a huge clay jar. A long time ago, we didn't
have refrigeration. |
| Oh: |
They
put the jar underground sometimes in a cool dark place with
a heavy stone. My mother put something on top. You don't
want it to evaporate. You want to minimize evaporation.
Because the salt tends to evaporate it - to dry it out.
If it does dry out, they make something of it. If it's too
sour, they clean up all the ingredients and chop it and
make kimchi chi gi (a casserole) out of it. Kim chi is always
something that's there (at the table). Kimchi is recycled
- used in many ways. From our menu we have Bin Dae Duk,
(a pancake made of mungbean, kimchi, scallions, and bean
sprouts). Kimchi Mandu, (sautéed in beef and kimchi
dumplings). Kimchi Chi Ge (kimchi, vegetable and pork casserole)
Bok Kum Bap, (fried rice with choice of kimichi or vegetables). |
Copyright
NYFM 2003, Dana Terebelski and Nancy Ralph.
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